What does the terms vintage and antique mean in referring to jewellery?

What does the terms vintage, antique, kitsch, retro and second hand mean in referring to jewellery?

The terms meaning with reference to jewellery explained in this blog?

What does the terms or words vintage or antique actually mean when referring to jewellery? - A definition guide explained. The difference between vintage, antique or contemporary or second hand jewellery and what do we mean by retro and kitsch when referring to all sorts of jewellery both fine and costume?

Specifically in using the terms above as I date many of the jewellery items. The guide below gives the age range on when each term can be correctly use and the meaning if applicable.

Vintage jewellery

This term applies to anything that was manufactured between antique and pre owned/second hand. So that's usually over 25 years old and up to about 100 years of age.

In 2021 this is now the years including Art Deco and retro from about the 1920s to around 1996. Now it is very difficult to date many pieces of jewellery to exactly these years - so its easy to say from the 1920s up to the end of the 1990s class as being true vintage and original. 

Above a 1970s green bead collar necklace made in Hong Kong and signed. Can be worn facing the front or back showing the ornate clasp.

Antique jewellery

This term applies to pre Victorian and items that are over 100 years of age. Anything prior to 1921 can be classed as antique. It will include the periods Georgian, Victorian, Arts & Crafts, Art Nouveau and Edwardian up to about 1921 (Art Deco period).

Second Hand, Pre Owned, Pre loved or Contemporary jewellery

This terms I tend use for any piece of jewellery that is up to 25 years old. Exact would be 1996 onwards - but its is very difficult to be that precise - so I have used the age span from the 2000s to yesterday. This means that items are modern, pre owned or pre loved and so not new.
 
Second hand is called contemporary in the USA. A different meaning to that which the UK uses. Contemporary jewellery in the UK is usually high class handmade jewellery that is new. 

Be also aware that the term second hand is also widely used for any item that has been previously owned, what ever it's age, by many others outside of this website blog.

Modern-Vintage or Vintage-Modern jewellery

Another way of saying pre owned/second hand jewellery that is not quite of real vintage age. But estimated to have been made in the last 20 years. 

Vintage Inspired, Vintage Style or Antique style jewellery

In the style of vintage, antique or retro style - you may have seen these terms used. The jewellery is usually brand new but will have some aspect that looks as though it has a designed of many years ago. It has been inspired in the style of a certain defined period. Be aware that many companies that use the term vintage only - actually mean new and in the style of - even though it may be nothing like vintage. They are just jumping on the vintage bandwagon!

Retro jewellery

The term retro means "old fashioned" or associated with the past/revived from the past. Technically it should be applied to jewellery from the 1940s and 1950s that has a distinct old fashion - quaint look. But nowadays retro can be a term referred to something that has a "days gone by look" especially if it is from the 50s and 60s.

Kitsch jewellery

This applies to something that looks fun and quirky and that was once popular and has a sentimental appeal. Now the term refers to items with mass appeal that have become highly collectible. Its can be a stroll down memory lane and can include - kitsch pop it bead necklaces, love beads, macramé and dried flowers embedded in resin (to name just a few items classed as kitsch).

Kawaii Jewellery

This term is applied to jewellery that is cute and pretty. Very girly often in pretty pastel colours and a novelty to wear. Can be made from plastic, enamel, clay or wood. Designs often include cupcakes, stars, food, flowers, cats, birds, other animals and dolls to name just a few. Kawaii jewellery can be handmade and quite original. Fun to collect and also to wear.

Junk jewellery.

This is now used in reference to broken jewellery that is ideal to upcycle. It is also a term used by some to refer to costume jewellery. 

Updated July 2021 Copyright. 

Identifying 20th Century jewellery

When you wear or collect vintage jewellery it is very useful to be able to identify 20th century jewellery and what era it probably came from. One good book to help is called 20th Century Jewelry: The complete source by John Peacock.
A large but relatively inexpensive book that is filled with some great information. For once it does not focus on photographs of vintage brooches, earrings and necklaces as well as other forms of adornment. But actually looks at the different shapes and designs used in each 10 year decade. Illustrated with designs rather than photographs.

   The book starts from the 1900s with Art Nouveau forms of jewellery. Dragonfly brooches and lapel pins of pearl. It shows brooches, earrings and necklaces with pendants, bracelets and rings. It also has buckles and shoe clasps as well as hair ornaments of combs and pins.

Then onto the 1910s with long dangling earrings, sautoirs, necklaces and the start of the Egyptian themed pieces. Buckles were used extensively on belts and on hats for decoration. Hair ornaments were worn low on the fore head and jewelled bags and watches were in fashion. Mens jewellery were chained enamel cufflinks and tie pins.

Moving into the Art Deco period with machine styled and angular designs. Then onto the 1930s to 1940s. In the 1930s dress ornaments were used on long dresses and to add glitter with decoration on the back of plunge backed dresses.

  
Post and pre war jewellery of the 1940s to 1950s became more elaborate and slightly larger in style. Pearl necklaces, bracelets and earrings were very much in fashion. Frivolous novelty jewelry with dog brooches, flower basket and Chinese designs. the Carmen Miranda influence was seen in bright lemons, orange and fruit designs. In the 1950s to 1960s brooches were used extensively on clothing, Necklaces were very drape with multiple strands in bright colours.

When the 1960s arrived fashion became adventurous and exciting. All sorts of materials were used. Pop groups influenced jewellery and necklace pendants became bigger and bolder. With shoulder duster earrings and cocktail rings. It was a decade of decadence. 

1970s to the 1980s were eras of change and experimentation. With chunky chain link necklaces and all gold or silver colours and mens jewellery becoming more flamboyant. Into the 1990s the big and bold styles continued with bows and pearls a favourite. 

At the end of the twentieth century crosses come back into fashion with layered necklaces and a classical modern approach applied. 

The book is very useful for recognizing the many eras and styles, well worth obtaining.

Preserving jewellery in Sold Gallery

Preserving the jewellery that we sell in the Sold Gallery.
I know I mentioned this earlier this week , but just thought to expand the reason. What else to do on a very wet Saturday morning in Solihull?

Over the last 3 years, when we have sold a brooch, necklace or pair of earrings, we have just deleted the photographs and information. This is a shame because, many times we have researched and it may contain relevant information on that piece of jewellery. Maybe it was about the manufacturer, the era or the construction.

Mizpah vintage pixie brooch

  

Wanting to continue to share that information. We have now developed a Sold Gallery. Now once a vintage necklace or an antique brooch is sold we will gradually move it to this Gallery for display.
We hope this will help others to identify vintage jewellery manufacturers and designers. Help date their own antique/vintage/second-hand jewellery. Or just to look at some lovely jewels as I love to do!

Sarah Coventry pineapple brooch - beware that the glass part can be missing and so can be found as available without the pineapple bit online.

Just a quick reminder on how we categorize on Jewels and Finery:

Antique jewellery
Brooches, earrings and other pieces that are a hundred years old or older. This includes Victorian and now Edwardian jewellery.
Vintage jewellery
Generally, the jewellery in this category on the site is genuine necklaces, cufflinks, bracelets and other jewels, that were made between 1910 and the end of the 1980s. Vintage is said to be over 25 years old. However, it is very difficult to date exactly and so we have chosen our timeline for easier and quicker listing.
Second-hand jewellery or pre-owned jewellery
This is more modern jewellery that dates from the 1990s up to the present day. It is all been in someone else's possession previously. Some is worn and some may not be. We do find that many of the brooches, earrings, pendants and accessories have been given as presents. Not being to the new owner's tastes, they are then resold to us. Some have not been out of the boxes.
All our antique, vintage and second-hand jewellery is usually only available in quantities of one. Once sold we may never source the same piece again.
Unlike our last and most recent category:
Vintage Inspired Jewellery
This is a brand new jewellery that has appealed to us. It may look retro or vintage. It may be of a historical design. It may be in gemstones that have taken millions of years to form. But we do have small amounts of each. So if you like one ring, you can also buy it in another colour!
And lastly not forgetting that we do sell earring backs for pierced earrings and pillows and pads for clip-on earrings in earrings accessories.

Here are a few of our latest editions:

Antique fleur di li brooch - Now this is jewellery with a past

These are very pretty resin roses and daisies - vintage floral cameo brooch

Vintage-inspired stretch ring - '50s inspired jewellery

Available in two finishes - silver and antique silver

Gorgeous vintage teardrop rhinestone clip earrings

Jewellery Glossary - G

Well November has arrived and with only 51 days to Christmas now!! Usually I am running around at the last minute and panicking, but this year I am slightly more organized and have already started my shopping.
We have also had a busy week with photographing lots of jewellery as well as buttons and buckles for our craft site.

 Vintage tiger brooch

Now onto the jewellery glossary and for the letter G we have the following:

Garnet - A variety of gemstone that is available in a variety of colours of red, green, violet and yellow.  The dark red coloured stone was very popular in Victorian times.Garnets are thought to bring a warm fiery energy that helps fight cold and sluggish feelings.


Guilloche enamel - transparent or translucent enamel that is applied to metal that is engraved in detail

German silver - an alloy that does not contain silver also known as Tibetan silver.

 Vintage bow brooch signed Lisner

Gold - precious metal. Pure gold is 24 Karat (99.9%) but it is soft. To harden more copper or other base metal is added. 18 K was used in antique (rose gold) and Russian jewellery. Gold can also be used as a gold plating or wash, as well as gold filled/rolled gold.

  Antique gold fob with carnelian & bloodstone

Green Jasper - a type of quartz with a long history of being used in making amulets and ornaments. Magically believed to protect from snake bites and poisons.

Here are some of our latest photographs of vintage jewellery and vintage buckles to be added to our websites soon.

 

Jewellery Glossary Part - F

Its fast approaching our daughter's eighteenth birthday and hope to get out shopping this week for lots of birthday goodies. Where have the years gone to, my baby all grown up!
Have still a lot of plants to bring in before the frosts start but what with the rain and having flu, they are still in the garden. Though they have grown and not sure where to put two large banana plants this year! Lost my banana in the garden last year so of course had to buy 2 to replace it.    

So to part F of the jewellery glossary

Facet - One of the flat polished faces of a cut stone

Antique earrings

Faceted - A stone that is cut with flat surfaces and polished that catch the light. The amber and clear brooch below has beautiful faceted stones that show that they reflect light and sparkle.

Fede-Rings - Those which bear two hands clasped in troth
Ferronniere - Chain encircling the forehead and held by a jewel in the middle
Fibula - A brooch or clasp, still used in Celtic jewellery
Filigree - Lace like accessory which is made of fine wire

Fire-Opal - A rich red-orange coloured opal

24Th Wedding Anniversary

Most people get a bunch of flowers and a card for their anniversary from hubby. This year he gave me the flu! Have had a long weekend off together and he has been really ill - must have been for our teenage son to notice!! Now I feel achy and the start of a cold coming - the joy!!

The weather was glorious 24 years ago, looking back to the many memories of friends and family who unfortunately are no longer with us today. My only regret would be that I did not keep a diary (memory not as it should be) and took loads of photographs over the years. Especially of my teenage years and early twenties. Yes I did wear a mini dress - lets face it most of us did, but it does not stop her father looking at our daughter's attire and saying is that a t-shirt or what! go and put some clothes on! My daughter takes so many photographs at every opportunity and  makes collages of photographs in books with messages or frames for friends birthdays.
I like the idea of keeping a scrap book to record our family history but so far have just brought a scrap book. Just need to start - something for my children and hopefully grandchildren at some point in the future.

So for my anniversary here are a few pieces of floral and wedding jewellery

Something blue for luck vintage brooch

Vintage costume jewellery pearl earrings

 Antique rhinestone earrings

Silver red rose pendant necklace

Photographing Jewellery

Today was an ideal day for photographing our jewellery out doors. Not too hot and not too cold. Also we have found that the best time is early morning or late afternoon as after 11 am the sun is high in the sky and casts shadows onto the background that we use. Making it a bit more difficult to get the right light.
I love sparkling jewellery, so here is a few pieces that we took photographs of today.

The local wild life just take our presence in their stride. The squirrels just go around us and carry on feeding at the bird table. So do most of the birds, all except the wood pigeons who really are a bit brainless. They dawdle along heading for the bird feeders, and then suddenly see us and take fright. If you look very closely you may be able to see the flock of sea gulls that were circling overhead on our last shoot, reflecting on the black marble background.
This snail decided to move out of the watering can

   

But he was nowhere near my hostas - I hope!!

More on visit to Jewellery Quarter Birmingham

Just a few more antique and vintage jewellery photographs from our visit to the Jewellery Quarter Museum in Birmingham

Antique pendant and earrings set

Bit blurred but a tortoise shell and pique (gold inlay) cross

Both photographs above are of carved bone of a cross pendant and floral brooch.

  Coral and pinch beck tiaras

Well worth a visit to the museum. Wish they had the description of the jewellery a bit more in depth and below the actual pieces rather than trying to find them on the wall charts though!

Latest additions to Jewels and Finery

 Vintage jewellery from Exquisite

Contemporary jewellery in the design of an octopus

 Vintage key ring from Avon in the initial A

Visit to The jewellery Quarter Birmingham Museum

Recently we went to visit the museum at the Jewellery Quarter. Been loads of times to the Quarter but never got round to looking at the museum. Well worth a visit, especially if you are interested in how antique gold jewellery was made.

The museum is in an old terraced house that once was the working premises of the Smith & Pepper company, 75 to 79 Vyse Street, Hockley. The mark on their jewellery is S & P.
Uncle and nephew, Charles Smith and Edward Pepper, rented one house that Charles lived in and the one next door. Turning their home into a factory was not unusual in those times. In the late Victorian period many people in the Jewellery Quarter did this or rented the front room out for industry. Eventually building an extension workshop in the back garden. Edward Pepper's only son died in WW1 and 3 children of Charles took over the family firm. Eric, Tom and Olive, the three never married or had children to continue the family business and so in 1981 when gold was at an all time high they called it a day. Eric was 81, Olive 78 and Tom 74 giving the 11 remaining employees two weeks notice they closed shop. Literally just shut everything down and left. Ten years later Birmingham City Council acquired the premises and found tool covered benches and a gold making factory suspended in time. Many of the items used were used almost a hundred years before. Every time they had attempted to modernize the workers had rebelled preferring old tradition to mechanism that could have made their life a bit easier.

 This is how they made a cup of tea - in the eighties!! 

     

  Polishing benches occupied by women workers - one of the few jobs they were allowed to do!

Dangerous work as the belts rotated on a mechanism and could snap. It was not unknown to hit a woman in the eye and blinding her.

Stamping pit where one worker spent 60 years. As he became older and more fragile, the company tried to help him with a mechanism that took the weight of the pulley ropes. But he did not like it and continued to use his own strength. Pulling the rope activates the stamping machines seen behind the ropes and the weights stamp a sheet of gold.

As said earlier well worth a visit. My only regret is that the historian's of the Jewellery Quarter tend to totally focus on the fine jewellery produced in that area. But many of the factories produced costume jewellery, buttons, souvenir gifts and trinkets. In fact the vintage jewellery of W A P Watson and Miracle all originated in the Jewellery Quarter. Lambourne and Stratton were also located in the Quarter.

Animal Jewellery reviewed in style

Through out February 2010, we added some new categories or themed animal jewellery to make browsing easier on Jewels and Finery

One of those themes were antique and vintage animal figural jewellery.

Many people have a favourite animal. It can be a family pet or something more exotic

I buy many items that have black cats and German Shepherds on. However in jewellery, I have yet to find any.
Particular German Shepherd jewellery is not seen very often compared to poodles!!

Here are just a few photographs of vintage and antique animal jewellery that are both for sale at present or have been sold in the past.

Panther, leopard and big cat jewellery has been very popular since the twenties, when few people had seen these animals except in circus performances or in books. Both of these big cat brooches are vintage modern

Jonette climbing leopard brooch 1980s

   

Farm animals are a very popular theme in jewellery. From simple wooden cut brooches to metal and rhinestone-studded ones. Again this sheep brooch is a modern one. Pigs are a great favourite to collect.

Ceramic and pottery animal jewellery is available in a wide range of species.

Victorian and Edwardian antique jewellery often used horses within their design. Horses were part of everyday life, used in transport, farming and sport. The horse shoe has always been associated with good luck, especially at weddings. A vintage horse and shoe charm or pendant above. Below an Edwardian or Victorian men's fob compass in the shape of a horse shoe.  

 

Sometimes the jewellery designers use their imagination and the animals are very difficult to identify!

Fur was used extensively through out history as clothing, furnishing and jewellery. It is part of our heritage and something that happened. It is only in recent years that real fur is frowned at in clothing and jewellery. This brooch is of mink. Hollywood played a large part with stars wearing fur coats and rhinestone jewellery from the twenties onward. Today many of the film, TV and music stars produce their own ranges of clothing and jewellery.