Saturday 14 September 2019

C and D research on jewellery signatures

Research on Jewellery marks/signatures C to D

Part of our jewellery marks in alphabetical order. Are you curious about the stamps on the back of your costume jewellery? Then we have a whole load of information. Including where possible the actual photo of the mark or trademark.

C - Often seen a C in a circle - This just means copyright. It may have other stamps with it or it may be on its own. If it is on its own, it is not very good for identifying who made the piece. However, this mark was used after 1955, when the need for copyrighting came into force.
JJ Jonette jewelry signature
Copyright mark followed by JJ for Jonette Jewelry. This was used AFTER 1955. 

Cadoro. 1954 - 1987, US company, based in Manhattan. The Hollywood Stars actors and friends Steve Stuart Brody and Dan Steneskieu founded the company. Following the death of Dan in the 70s (Unknown actual date). The company ceased production in the 70s. But the jewellery and trinkets were available until the 1980s until Steve Brody retired. Good quality, produced in small limited editions and now hard to find. They used unusual materials as well as traditional - chenille, gold metal, rhinestone, enamel and plastic. Renowned for making filigree bra and breastplates also. So that women could then wear see-through tops over the top of them.
Signed CADORO with or without the copyright symbol.

Camco - see Cathedral Art Metal Company below for more information.
Camco small brooch

Camco signature
Camco stamp with a copyright sign. The reverse of the above small cornucopia brooch pin.

Capri Jewelry Inc - This company was based at 392, 5Th Avenue, New York, USA. They were in production from (1949?) 1952 until about 1977. But remained on the legal file until the early 1990s. One source cites that the owner was a Sol Smith. The jewellery company called DelNicola was incorporated into the Capri company around 1973. Underrated beautiful and well made. However, this company did not make their own jewellery. They purchased from other companies (Florenza and other jewellery businesses) They introduced the usual jewellery pieces: necklaces, bracelets, earrings and brooches from rhinestones, mock pearls and art glass. Jewellery advertisements can be found on the Internet. Signed Capri and ©Capri in block capitals (after 1955).
Capri brooch leaf design

Cardin Pierre 1950s - today. Italian born designer who lives and works in France. Renowned for his space-age and Avant-Garde designs. Originally working with Elsa Schiaparelli and then head of Christian Dior. Founding his own empire in the 1950s, he went on to design not only fake jewellery but couture clothing, accessories, perfume, bags, cars and he purchased Maxim's restaurant chain in 1981. Preferring geometric shapes and motifs and showing such elegance in design. Pierre Cardin also holds theatre performances for showcasing his creations. as well as music festivals. In 1988, Pierre Cardin sold licences for his brand. Although this brought him a lot of money. It watered down his identity and futuristic style. His name was used on products, not associated with him. The logo is a curved P signature.
Pierre Cardin logo and necklace

Carnegie Hattie - 1939 - 1970s, US company owned by Hattie Carnegie (1886 - 1956) who was Austrian and emigrated to the US, when young. Produced cocktail jewellery to compliment her dresses. Signed Hattie Carnegie, Carnegie or HC or HAC in a diamond shape plaque. Initially expensive pieces and remain so today. Very collectable and sought after as did not copy other manufacturers.

Carolee - 1972 - present. Started by Carol Friedlander in the US, first as a kitchen table project that escalated into the company it is today. Produced jewellery that resembles the Duchess of Windsor's jewellery. Available in up market departments stores in many countries and now available online. Just celebrated their 40th anniversary. The Brook Brother Group acquired Carolee in 2001. In 2017 it launched DECONIC. Based in Brooklyn. Selling contemporary and other luxury brands.

Castlecliff - 1918 - 1977. Clifford Furst and Joseph Bobley launched the company whilst working for others. First signed their jewellery in 1941, when they first launched their brand. Their main designer was William Markle. Later Larry Vrba. A  New York-based US company who produced high-quality costume and sterling silver jewellery.
They used signatures such as "Castlemark" 1957, "Cassandra" after 1957, with or without the copyright. Also "Anne Klein for Castlecliffe" in 1977. The original company ceased in 1977. However, in the 1980s, they re-opened with Lucien Piccard as the head. The mark now is Castlecliffe Jewelry Div of Lucien Piccard.

Cathedral Art Metal Company (Camco)  - US jewellery company in production between the 1920s to the 1930s. They registered their trademark in January 1930s. Remained to produce tie tack pins, brooches, necklaces until the late 2000s. Unsure at this point whether they are still in production. The company last renewed the trademark on the 13th January 2010 - it is up for renewal soon. So watch this space! Signed their pieces CAMCO.
Cathedral Art Metal Company signature

Caviness Alice - 1945 - 2000 approximately. US, New York company that used the Alice Caviness signature with and without the copyright symbol after 1955, so not useful in dating with. They also like many had pieces produced that were unsigned including parure sets that would only have the one-piece stamped. Some were also made in W Germany, but these were signed W Germany and Alice Caviness. They were of silver or gold plated silver. Catalogue images can be found on the web, that will help with identification and age. This company sold at the higher end of the jewellery market.

Celebrity - New York, US-based jewellery company. Estimated to have operated between the 1950s to 1970s but little is known about them. High quality, handset rhinestone in gold, silver or rhodium-plated and a bit unusual was their speciality. Along with versatility. Sold at home parties and often included an extra earring - just in case of loss or to wear on a chain. Versatile in use, many had a double clasp on necklaces to convert into chokers or into a bracelet. It made them very attractive to buy. Stamped jewellery with the Celebrity mark or unsigned with a paper hang tag.
Celebrity signature on brooch
Celebrity stamp on the reverse of a butterfly necklace

Chanel - 1914 - 1939, 1949 - present. French Coco Chanel designed her couture precious, and costume lines. Sold under the brand "House of Chanel" Some of her jewellery is also dated as well as signed. Famous for her high end bold, big and highly decorative pieces. Coco was very important in jewellery history as she revolutionised the non-precious metal jewellery industry. Until the 1920s. Most jewellery was expensive often made of gold and silver. The people who did venture to wear costume jewellery were looked upon as poor. She, however, mixed real with the costume. Famously wearing layers of strings of faux pearl necklaces. Designs include the Maltese Cross and in the 1990s real jewellery was first introduced into the Chanel collection. Coco died in 1971, but her legacy lives on today.

Chemar  jewellery - Unknown brand
Chemar jewellery

Cherry Chau - 1992 - ?2011. French company and designer born in Hong Kong studied in London. Hair accessories and costume jewellery. Not to be confused with the bridal makeup artist of the same name.

Ciner - 1892 - present, Founded by Emmanuel Ciner in 1892 and started out producing fine jewellery in precious metal with a gemstone. This NY company then started to make fake jewellery that looked like real pieces in 1931. Consequently, it produced high-end pieces. Famous for using small sparkling stones and beautiful enamels. As well as 18 ct plated gold, Swarovski crystal and Japan faux pearls Marked Ciner after 1945, with or without the copyright sign. But previously unsigned. Under Cinerny online today. Famous for being 100% made in America.

Ciner clip earrings
Ciner clip on earrings 

Ciner clip earrings signed
Ciner signature on side of earring clip

Ciner clip earrings signed underneath
Ciner jewellery stamp in script

Ciro Pearls - Ciro Pearls started producing jewellery in 1917 in the UK. Until 1920 it sold all their range by mail order. In 1920 the company opened its first retail store. They also continued to sell by mail order and also from large department stores. By 1928 they not only sold imitation pearls, diamond, emerald, sapphire and ruby jewellery, but also white zircon, cultured pearls, marcasite, precious stones and gold jewellery. Later platinum was introduced.

At Ciro Pearl's height, the company had stores and outlets across the world. But as with most old jewellery companies - the mass import of imitation jewellery, in the 1970s and the 1980s, from Hong Kong and other Eastern countries with the following recession. They saw a downturn of profit and in November 1994 the company went into receivership. The Ciro name and company was brought by a London Businessman and now this family-run business continues with the Ciro name. The Ciro jewellery company can still be found online - but does not appear to have any updates since 2018?

Ciro Pearls advertised with pride that their faux pearl and diamante items were difficult to tell from real pearls and diamonds. They produced necklaces, bracelets, brooches, earrings, dress and double clips, rings, badge brooches of regiments, crown jewels reproduction and much more.

Ciro pearls box logo
Ciro in a pink box circa 1990s to 2000s 
Ciro pearls box logo 1980s
Ciro in a red box circa the 1980s.
Vintage Ciro Pearls is usually marked Ciro or CP. However, there will always be some of their jewellery that is not marked - as with all companies. Also, some Ciro Pearls jewellery is marked twice with Ciro and the company who made it. Ciro adverts and books with their jewellery can still be found today.
Ciro Pearls necklace in box

C J - Unknown signature. On many Scottish styled and inspired jewellery. Either marked just C J or C J Scotland. Note there appear to be multiple companies using CJ or C & J. So care should be taken when identifying your piece.

Claiborne Liz - Fashion designer Belgium/American 1929 - 2007. Established her company in the 1980s. Sold clothing, accessories and jewellery. Signed LC, and/or on a signature card.
Claire's Stores Inc - 1974 to present, a worldwide international company for a young fashionable teenager or young adult jewellery and accessories. Aimed at children from 3 to young women of 27. Signature tag with just Claire's on denotes their items. In Jan 2012 they had 3017 stores worldwide. They also have ear piercing facilities. The other brand the company uses is Icing in North America.
Liz Claiborne yellow brooch LC

Claire's - Claire's Accessories. 1974 - still in business. Aimed at young women, teenagers and children (3 to 18). They offer fun and affordable jewellery across the world. Also, have another brand Icing - see information in alphabetical order. We have plenty of Claire's accessories available in stock in our collections.
Claires hang tag on necklace
Claire's hang tag on necklace

Claires logo
Two different brandings on Claire's products.

Claires logo

black skeleton earrings by Claires

Coalport bone china jewellery 1795 - 1967. Founded in Shropshire England. Famous for china plates and crockery of bone china. They also made a range of hand pained jewellery. Often stamped on the back. Wedgwood took over the company in 1967 and the name was no longer used.
Coalport lapel brooch signed

Coalport flower brooch signed

Coalport purple flower brooch signed

Coalport pink flower brooch signed

Coalport purple yellow pink flower brooch signed

Coro company started in 1901 in the USA. It closed in the US in 1979 and in Canada in 1998. One of the most successful fake jewellery makers of the twentieth century. Produced with sterling silver during World War Two due to the lack of metal available. Also used many other names including Corocraft, Coro-Craft, Vendome and Jewelcraft.
Up to 1955, they patented their designs after they copyrighted them. Some of their jewellery is signed and some not. Had factories in the US and also Sussex, UK.
Coro - US jewellery company that had a factory in Sussex, the UK from 1949. So although not English they did produce jewellery here in the Uk and you can find some pieces signed as such. In production from 1901 to 1979. The factory was taken over by Swarovski in the late 1970s or early 1980s. The jewellery is both signed and unsigned. Coro also produced many other pieces under various names including Corocraft, Jewelcraft and their high-end pieces Vendome.

Corocraft box logo
Corocraft box with signature.

Corocraft signature
Corocraft signature

Corocraft signature on earring backs box
Corocraft labelling on earrings backs.

Corocraft - see signatures used by Coro, Jewelcraft, Corocraft, Vendome in alphabetical order.
Corocraft signature on earring backs box
Corocraft earring backs - reverse information on the packaging

Countess Fine Bone China - produced by Harleigh China Gift Ware Ltd of Amison Street, Longton, Stoke On Trent. At least 1971 to closed in 1988. 1971 is the earliest established date but may have started a lot sooner. Bone china pendants, plaques and giftware produced.

Countess fine bone china pendant

Countess fine bone china pendant

Coventry Sarah. Started in 1949 by the C H Stuart company. Selling at fashion and home parties, with department stores in the late eighties to early nineties. In the 1960s the company expanded and began home selling in England, Scotland, Canada, Belgium and Australia. Reaching its peak in the 1980s the company went into decline and stopped trading in the mid-nineties. However, had a brief revival in 2003 in the US to 2008. Some of its jewellery for the UK was actually made here in the UK. You will find boxes stating this little known fact. See Emmons jewellery also.
A huge amount of jewellery and accessories can be found today still - Sarah Coventry brooches, necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, men's jewellery, children's jewellery, scarves and key rings.

Each collection was advertised in brochures which help to date. Several books have also been written which are also invaluable for the name of each piece and matching items. Advertisements in magazines can be found. 

Jewellery signed Sarah Coventry or an abbreviation: S C, Sarah Cov, Also marked targeted country on some jewellery i.e GB, UK and Canada. It is known that "Coventry" and "Sarah Coventry" was used from 1949, The mark "SC" was used from 1950. "Sarah " and "Sarah Cov" from 1951 and 1953 respectively. The mark SAC may not be from this company as there is no documented evidence. We have some old trade magazines that are available for you to browse on our blog posts. These may help with identification.

Sarah coventry box with logo
Fine fashion jewellery Sarah Coventry

Sarah coventry box with logo
Sarah Coventry LTD, Made in Britain

Sarah coventry signature
Sarah Coventry on box in script

Sarah Coventry brooch signed
Sarah Coventry brooch with an amber coloured glass rhinestone centre.

Birthstone ring by sarah coventry

Birthstone ring by sarah coventry

Birthstone ring by sarah coventry

Birthstone ring by sarah coventry
Birthstone ring for September by Sarah Coventry 1970s.
Birthstone ring by sarah coventry

bird brooch by sarah coventry

ivy leaf brooch by sarah coventry
Rarer ivy leaf and faux pearl brooch by Sarah Coventry above.

Sarah coventry signed flower brooch
Peta Lure brooch by Sarah Coventry
Sarah Coventry signed flower ring

sarah coventry shirt cufflink box

sarah coventry shirt cufflinks in box

sarah coventry shirt cufflinks

Crown jewellery made in bone china.
1903 - mid 1980s. Made in Staffordshire, England originally. 
Crown bone china jewellery emblem and logo

Crown and Fish - Unknown and stamp seen on Cloisonne jewellery from the 1980s.

Crown and fish signature

Czechoslovakian - signed on some jewellery pieces. The country became Czechoslovakia as previous Bohemia. The country came into being after the first World War in late October 1918. So jewellery signed Czechoslovakia is dated from 1918. Care needs to be taken when distinguishing Czechoslovakian jewellery, some are marked and some are not. The findings are quite distinctive. But take care that it is genuine. They are often made with good quality glass beads and garnets. However, most Czech jewellery will be dated between the First World War and the second. Because in WW2, the Germans took over and most of the jewellery makers were in Jewish communities. Never recovering its early years of brilliance.

Danecraft - 1934 - present, Providence, Rhode Island, US company. The founder was of Italian heritage (Victor Primavera). Produced sterling silver and fake jewellery.
Danecraft signature on a brooch back

Daub Andreas - 1875 to present. German company producing high quality plated and fine jewellery. Signature is A * D.
Andrew Daub signed shell necklace A * D

Dawson Edith - Created beautiful enamelled jewellery. Wife of Montague Fordham. Arts & Crafts designer of birds and floral delights.

Dawson Nelson - (1859 - 1942) Founded the Artificer's Guild in 1901 in London's Chiswick district. Taken over 2 years later by Montague Fordham. Arts & Crafts era.

DeLizza & Elter (D & E) - 1947 - 1990s, Brooklyn, US company sold worldwide. Made jewellery also for other companies including Weiss, Kramer, Hobe, Eisenberg, Sarah Coventry and hundreds of others. Also sold under the name "Juliana". Glitzy jewels produced over a long period of time with most unsigned but have features that pronounce them as D & E.

DeNicola - 1957 - 1973, New York, US company. Founded by Jerry De Nichola in the 1950s. Collectable for their Zodiac pieces and interesting unusual designs including the angel and George & Dragon design. In 1962 they produced a series of sea life inspired pieces called "Real Life" followed in 1964 by the "Young American" series. Became part of Capri before closing down in 1973.

Denton China English china manufacturers originally based in Stoke on Trent where most of the UK potteries started. Now based in Berkshire. Produced a range of china flower jewellery. Brooches and earring, matching sets can be found.

Demario Robert - 1945 - 1965, NY USA company.

Destiny - a UK company selling silver jewellery.

De Rosa - 1934 - 1970, Ralph De Rosa Company of New York, USA. Sterling silver used during World War Two, like most US companies and produced fake jewellery.

Diamonds and Pearls - Small UK stores selling costume pieces. Available briefly in the mid-2000s. They may be no longer trading.

Dior Christian - 1948 - present. French company. Fashion, accessories, beauty, perfume and jewellery production. Christian Dior jewellery was produced from 1948 in Germany. Marked "Christian Dior" produced by Mitchel Maer (Between 1952 and 1953) An American designer working in England and Chr Dior Germany with a date by Henkel & Grosse from 1955 to today.

Christian Dior signature

Christian Dior large clip earrings and signature

DKYN - 1984 - present. Donna Karan, New York, USA company. Clothing, perfume accessories, jewellery and watches. Jewellery that you can't miss, it seems to have its name written all over it!

Dodds - 1952 - 1997. New Jersey, USA. Sold jewellery kits as well as jewellery. Can also have the following signatures due to the location: West 31 street, 11 w 30 st inc, 30 w st inc, w 30 st inc and also Doddz. Famous for their cat pins.  

D'Orlan - 1957 - present, a Canadian company. Founder Maurice Bradden, a protégé of Marcel Boucher and first designed for the Avon, Belleville company. He established a factory in Canada in 1957. Manufacturer for Lancel and Nina Ricci jewellery. Famous for using Austrian crystal and producing good quality pieces.
D'Orlan vintage heart brooch 1980s

Dorothy Ann bone china jewellery. 1940s - 1950s?  Unknown origin in England. Piece are very collectable as hand painted. Usually with the stamp on the reverse.
Dorothy Ann bone china brooch

Dorothy Ann bone china flower brooch

Du Jay - 1934 - 1972, Many pieces were unsigned. High gloss enamel, pave, and bead detail is typical of the company who were originally fine jewellery makers.

DQCZ - Diamonique brand from the TV channel QVC. Cubic Zirconia synthetic stones are quality cut to resemble real diamonds.

Duke Elizabeth sold by the chain store Argos in the UK. Started around 1980 and named after the director's wife. Now changing to another brand "Jewellery and Watches" Good quality pieces that many have stood the test of time. Unsigned but can still be found in their original signed boxes.

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About Me

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Solihull, West Midlands, United Kingdom
I preserve the past. Researching family and local history. Finding about mine and other people's ancestors, is just one of my passions. I also love vintage costume jewellery made here in the UK. I write about my finds and like to research.