1930's filigree and rhinestone jewellery

1930s jewellery comes under the Art Deco and pre-war banner. Jewellery from that decade was a mix of graphic, luxury and very exotic. The thirties is most associated with bright colourful 1930's jewellery, usually imported into the UK from Bohemia. Art Deco and modernist machine jewellery was in evidence but also other styles flourished in the pre war boom years.

Blue rhinestone dress clip circa 1930s Bohemian

Vintage brooches of that period were often of enamel with marcasite or rhinestone encrusted of multi colours. The signature style of Czech vintage jewellery was filigree, in a few short years it was imported into this country in the thousands such was the demand. It was evident on brooches, bracelets, necklaces, dress clips and earrings. Earring mechanisms changed from pierced to the clip and screw backs; because to pierce ears required a cork and sharp needle - modern piercing equipment had yet to be invented. Dress clips became very fashionable worn on dresses and tops singular or in pairs.

Small 1930s brooch with colourful rhinestone and filigree

War in the UK saw a gradual change in material used, to sterling silver and "natural" occurring products such as shells, wood and seeds. With rationing until the 1950s, jewellery was available only in small quantities or "home made" Once again during the 30s and 40s, the UK saw the jewellery industry change to help the war effort.

Black and carved gold feature on this pair of 1930s earrings

The war brought an end to the flourishing Bohemian jewellery industry. The Jewish workers and owners either fled the country or ended up in concentration camps never to return.

A filigree effect around this tear drop shaped rhinestone on this amethyst purple pair of earrings

1930s vintage flower brooch.

Today brightly coloured rhinestone and filigree jewellery can still be found at a reasonable price. The workmanship was by far superior to today's machine made pieces. Rhinestones were prong set by hand and the filigree is in several layers. Beware when buying "vintage" filigree jewellery from Czechoslovakia as the jewellery is not real vintage but new reproductions of an inferior quality. This is very evident now on shopping channels such as eBay.        

Ear Clip Cushions & Pads for Vintage Clip Earrings & Dating Clip On Earrings

After a lovely sunny and hot weekend, it is raining this morning. We did have plans to photograph some of the antique and vintage jewellery that we have this morning. The "to list" boxes are growing at about one a week at the moment. So that will have to wait!!

Over the weekend we managed to add the clip earring cushions and pads that help to grip and cushion the clip mechanism on all sorts of clip earrings both vintage and pre owned jewellery and of course any new ones! Still available in many different sizes and assorted packs.

 Clip Earring Cushion Sleeves or Slippers

Available in two sizes of small or large

 Rubber pads or plugs for clip on earrings 

Available in two sizes large and small

 Plastic cushion pads with grooves in a small

We have wanted to stock these for a while but have only just found a supplier.

When we source vintage clip on earrings, many have the rubber type of pads inserted. They look a lot nicer than the bits of sticky cushion that some people use. We remove these before cleaning and throw away. Over time the rubber hardens and will often break when removed. The reason we do this is two fold. Firstly hygiene and then because they will no longer cushion the new owners ears. This is not only because the rubber is no longer soft but the pad side of the rubber pad plug will mould to the shape of the wearer's ear lobe over time.

If the earring paddle has round holes at the end then these plug pads are ideal for use.

 

If the paddle has no holes or non round holes then the cushions will just slip over the paddle. Just measure the paddles width and length with a ruler for size.  The earrings below have the imprint for holes but not actual holes on the finding paddles. These would probably be a large cushion size but would need to measure to be sure.

   
As for dating vintage clip earrings - the clip mechanism with the paddle was invented and patented in the 1930s. So earring have to date from then. Before the Victorians use hook findings and thicker posts on earrings for pierced ears. Usually pierced using a hot needle - no sterilized guns in those days. The screw mechanism for unpierced ears came out around the turn of the twentieth century

These are a pair of earrings from the 1950s at least. In marcasite with a gold plating to the front of the leaves. The plating has worn on the tips. But these are dainty vintage clip earrings that curve along your ear lobe shape. These can be worn with small sized ear clip cushions. 

 

 Vintage marcasite leaf clip on earrings from the 1950s

Another pair of vintage clip on earrings from the 1950s to the 1970s. They are in marcasite and enamel. Fabulous condition and probably have not been worn. Scottish thistles in vibrant purple and green. They are unmarked but may be from Exquisite as they are in their style. These can be worn with the rubber clip earring pads as they have the holes in the paddle. 

Vintage enamel marcasite thistle clip on earrings 

These are an early pair of clip earrings probably from Gablonz, Bohemia. The black glass beads have grooves where they have been gilded - probably by hand. Bohemia exported a huge amount of jewellery and jewellery components up until the second world war when the owners and factory workers who were Jews were forced to flee the country or were imprisoned by the Nazis.

These beads in the earrings are superb workmanship. The clip findings are able to be worn with ear clip cushion slippers   

Vintage beaded clip earrings 1930s - 1940s Bohemia

I will look at the distinct earring backs that were produced by certain designers/manufacturers in another blog to come

January, Vintage Beads and jewellery findings

We have been a bit snow with adding more vintage jewellery, beads and buttons. The snow seems to have slowed everything down. Now its gone - at least for a short while. So this is our last photograph of the snow on our pond.

Snow in January 2010.

The fish did not seem to mind the weather, we kept the pond pump going and so it did not freeze over   

Here is a selection of the vintage jewellery that I have found and have identified the age of each piece. When we finally managed to stop snow watching!

 

Victorian revival brooch in black from the 1970s  

Vintage red bead bracelet 1930s 

Stunning pink cameo brooch -modern from the 2000s

Just some of the vintage beads and findings that have passed through our hands.

Second hand bracelet findings for making a bracelet. Circ 2000s

Salmon pink vintage beads made of plastic.

One of our most unusual finds - a vintage brooch probably made from an old piece of uniform with a crown royal design and surrounded by cut steel. The pin has been stitched to the back. Old red velvet backing 

 

Vintage crown brooch  

Many more jewels to be added to this blog. So bookmark for our updates.

Using Dress Clips and Scarf Clips as necklaces

The idea of using dress clips and scarf clips was one of the subjects discussed a few months ago on the Jewelry Ring. A few members used their dress clips as necklaces with a thick chain.

So when the question came up on how to use sweater guards or sweater clips (collar clips) on Queens of Vintage I first answered as for dress clips, but on realizing that the question meant sweater clips. Another use could still be as a necklace

Hunting through the boxes full of vintage jewellery for sweater clips I could only find a pair of Victorian Chatelaines, not clips. But the principle would be the same for dress clips as would sweater and scarf clips

Experiment with the thickness of chain necklaces and other materials such as mock pearl bead necklaces and chokers. Some clips will sit well but others will not.

This is a pair of Victorian Scottish dancers double brooches joined by a chain known as a chatelaine brooch. Sweater clips have alligator clips that are similar to the clips on men's tie bars or tie clips.


Here is an assortment of clips dress and scarf clips that I have to experiment with.



First I tried a square link necklace but the only clip that fitted fairly well was the dress clip, the others were too loose. I would suggest that sweater clips would sit well on this type of chain necklace

Next tried a chunky silver metal chain. This time the dress clip did not fit as the chain was too bulky, but the scarf clips were well suited as the chunkiness held the clip quite secure


Looking through necklaces and chokers that would be suitable, I came across this mock pearl bead work choker


Again the 1930s scarf clips were too bulky but the dress clip sat firm and looked quite unique. A similar bead work necklace would be ideal for sweater clips also.

Finally took some thick long chains and tried fitting the clips.


Both dress and scarf clips fitted very well. However sweater clips would slip along the chain unless they were small enough to fit side by side









Have fun with fitting clips to chains and experimenting. Would love to see how others get on

New Look To Jewels and Finery

Czech Brightly Coloured Rhinestone Jewellery from the Thirties

Just a quick note
We have a new look to our site - Jewels and Finery

Updated vintage costume jewellery information especially the Exquisite and other British Designers; and added some new photographs
Take a quick look
Feedback very welcome

Cheers - have a good weekend
We hope it stops raining soon.....Good Old British Weather!!

Jewellery Glossary

Cabochon glass stone in this Hollywood brooch

Below are just a four common terms used to describe jewellery both fine and costume

Cabochon - A stone with a smooth curved, highly polished and unfaceted surface. The oldest form of gem cutting still in use today.

Cameo pendant from plastic

Cameo - A gem, hardstone, shell, plastic or other materials in which the upper section is carved or molded in relief whilst the lower serves as a background.

Filigree - Delicate metal wire designed into a complex repeating pattern.

Filigree design on this brooch

Marcasite - The trade name given to the tiny bright metallic stones called iron pyrites when used in jewellery.

Marcasite clip on earrings

All jewellery available at Jewels and Finery

Jewelry buying and selling information

Over the years that I have collected vintage jewellery, I love the big rhinestone brooches and necklaces of the 1930s, 40s and 50s.
When my husband and I decided to start buying antique and vintage jewellery to sell, the learning curve for both of us was steep. From the start, it was always vintage costume jewellery that we were interested in.
What age is the piece, designer, condition, interest and price???
We source from sales, auctions, shops and from private collections. We also have brought many reference books on antique and vintage jewellery, cameos, bakelite, Avon, Sarah Coventry and other designers - building up quite a reference library.

During our buying, my husband and I were presented with many pieces of jewellery that were in need of restoration or for reuse.
Necklaces that needed re-stringing, bits missing from bracelets, stones missing from brooches and bent earrings. Gradually we amassed a small collection that we had mistakenly brought. Brooches that had a stone missing that we had not noticed on purchase. Clasps that did not work and other pieces of jewellery that needed repair. Already having replaced stones in my own jewellery, we were able to restore many of these pieces but some were not restorable. The choice was to throw them away or sell a job lot on eBay!! I hate throwing anything away so opted to recycle as much material from each piece and then sell for jewellery making. So we often use them in jewellery making projects and repairs.

Slowly Jewels and Finery emerged. We have a vision of a large site that has not only old and new jewellery but jewellery supplies that have been recycled. Also buttons and associated vintage accessories. With this, we also thought a large amount of sewing, craft and jewellery making books would be appropriate to use. We both love old books. The pre-war ones are so interesting. How to make was much more in vogue and so the information is much more detailed. We have lost much over the years with being able to buy new as much that is made does not last. And people used to recycle not as now just throw away.

Antique and vintage beads and findings are sorted into boxes. Then as with the buttons they are sorted into type, cleaned and bagged. Jewellery is dismantled first. Again as with the vintage buttons as the web site supplies grow and as we source more beads. We can match up the same beads over a relatively short time and then offer a larger amount per bag. Sorting takes place into special boxes with small compartments for storage.

We do collect all sorts of children's beads and other kitsch items (more on kitsch in another blog soon)

1930s vintage belt buckle

In the last few weeks, we have prepared about 100 or so packs for the website. Glass, plastic, wood type, seeds and metal. Lampwork and faux pearls to name a few. Mark and I have great fun identifying the material and how to describe the colour and shape!! Who would have thought paint colour charts would be handy!!
Unlike new items that come from the wholesalers with a description of sorts and the material, class etc on the bag. The beads were antique and vintage are not so easy to identify material and the actual shape. A large collection of lampwork beads were a challenge, they looked like animals or fish but not quite. How do you describe these!!

Lampwork beads

From the beads came findings such as metal spacers, clasps and other jewellery parts. In the findings se,ction we have listed buckles as they were in the grandmother's button tins and we have sourced some antique ones.

Joining many jewellery chat boards has been great for the information and companionship. Being unable to mobilise and mix as I have always been used to.
We use strict criteria for recycling. Named jewellery is never dismantled but restored. Beads that need stringing and ones that are badly made are dismantled. However, we have had a few bracelets and necklaces that are downright ugly and unusable. These have been dismantled with the thought that the beads can be reused in a more wearable piece of jewellery. One necklace stands out and I have been tempted to add it to the beads box more than once. But it would be ideal for a fancy dress. It is the Flintstone necklace that we have for sale. Other than fancy dress, I can not for the life of me see anyone wearing it for everyday use!!

Note - Jewels & Finery no longer sells beads and findings. Instead, we use them in our own handmade jewellery. Using up-cycled bits and pieces.