Is this Miriam Haskell dress clip

On a recent buying spree I came across this poor vintage dress clip. On looking at the construction my first thought was "Is this a Miriam Haskell dress clip from the 1940s"? So I brought it - I think it cost me less than 50p and took it home. Now it is much rarer to find anything from Haskell in the UK compared to the US. Especially 1940s Haskell jewellery. If it was by Haskell, then this dress clip was probably a present from some GI to an English woman during World War Two. Now I am much more interested in the history of costume jewellery than any designer stuff, but this one intrigued me because it was made during the war.

I love to collect jewellery books on different designers, ages and materials; and I just happen to have this book on Haskell jewellery in my collection. I would recommend it as well - even if you have no Haskell pieces. As it looks at the designs and different eras with loads of jewellery photographs. Its not a bad thing to read about all types of jewellery as it gives you a much more over view and education. Very handy when you are trying to date or identify many pieces.

It called Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff.  

Back to this dress clip - well it is of faux glass pearl beads, some dangling and some arranged centrally. Then there is a pot metal leaf that has small diamante accents. The clip back is plastic with a metal clip mechanism. Here are a few "back" pictures that are very important when identifying jewellery.

Cathy and Sheila's Haskell book shows not only the fronts but the back view as well - Hurrah. Much easier to see if the construction is the same - although the photographs are a little small for my eyes now!

Yes the construction seems to match with the plastic base and metal shaped clip that Miriam Haskell's company used. Couldn't find the actual dress clip but the book showed a similar construction but with blue beads. Sorry can not show the pages I looked at in the book - so you must buy it yourself and see.

 

So I actually do think this is an early Miriam Haskell dress clip. What do you think? Yes its in bad condition and I have done nothing to it. No cleaning or repair. Yes I am keeping this one because its history and from WW2, so its not for sale. Might even have a go at restoration as I have enough glass pearl beads from that era to use as replacements.
   

1930's filigree and rhinestone jewellery

1930s jewellery comes under the Art Deco and pre-war banner. Jewellery from that decade was a mix of graphic, luxury and very exotic. The thirties is most associated with bright colourful 1930's jewellery, usually imported into the UK from Bohemia. Art Deco and modernist machine jewellery was in evidence but also other styles flourished in the pre war boom years.

Blue rhinestone dress clip circa 1930s Bohemian

Vintage brooches of that period were often of enamel with marcasite or rhinestone encrusted of multi colours. The signature style of Czech vintage jewellery was filigree, in a few short years it was imported into this country in the thousands such was the demand. It was evident on brooches, bracelets, necklaces, dress clips and earrings. Earring mechanisms changed from pierced to the clip and screw backs; because to pierce ears required a cork and sharp needle - modern piercing equipment had yet to be invented. Dress clips became very fashionable worn on dresses and tops singular or in pairs.

Small 1930s brooch with colourful rhinestone and filigree

War in the UK saw a gradual change in material used, to sterling silver and "natural" occurring products such as shells, wood and seeds. With rationing until the 1950s, jewellery was available only in small quantities or "home made" Once again during the 30s and 40s, the UK saw the jewellery industry change to help the war effort.

Black and carved gold feature on this pair of 1930s earrings

The war brought an end to the flourishing Bohemian jewellery industry. The Jewish workers and owners either fled the country or ended up in concentration camps never to return.

A filigree effect around this tear drop shaped rhinestone on this amethyst purple pair of earrings

1930s vintage flower brooch.

Today brightly coloured rhinestone and filigree jewellery can still be found at a reasonable price. The workmanship was by far superior to today's machine made pieces. Rhinestones were prong set by hand and the filigree is in several layers. Beware when buying "vintage" filigree jewellery from Czechoslovakia as the jewellery is not real vintage but new reproductions of an inferior quality. This is very evident now on shopping channels such as eBay.        

Dress Clips and Scarf Clips

I really like dress clips. they came into fashion around the 1920s up to about the 1950s when their popularity waned and changed to scarf clips.

The Art Deco clips in the 1920s are easy to find with their typical look.

Thirties clips are filigree with often beautiful colourful bohemia rhinestones. Imported from Czechoslovakia and other Bohemian countries.

Ideal for clipping to square or sweat heart necklines. Dress clips were often sold in pairs. But one can brighten up a round or lower/plunging neckline. Now most are found as one clip, fun to collect and see if you can find a partner or use on its own

This is the back of a dress clip, not to be confused with a fur clip that has two prongs.

When the fashion changed into scarf clips in the sixties and more so in the seventies, manufacturers used part of the dress clip plate (no waste then!) and added the circular clip. Which makes dating a bit easier for the scarf clips.

The scarf clip on the right in gold tone is an early clip 1960s/1970s as it has the part dress clip mechanism.
The one on the left is later at 1970s/1980s with a "made for" scarf clip mechanism.

 
Underrated vintage jewellery that can still be used today. Dress clips can be used on a hair band or as a necklace (see other blog post) Scarves are back in this year and there are so many ways to tie a scarf. If you can find it, there is a great book, now out of print called Living With Scarves by Lorraine Hammett.

Using Dress Clips and Scarf Clips as necklaces

The idea of using dress clips and scarf clips was one of the subjects discussed a few months ago on the Jewelry Ring. A few members used their dress clips as necklaces with a thick chain.

So when the question came up on how to use sweater guards or sweater clips (collar clips) on Queens of Vintage I first answered as for dress clips, but on realizing that the question meant sweater clips. Another use could still be as a necklace

Hunting through the boxes full of vintage jewellery for sweater clips I could only find a pair of Victorian Chatelaines, not clips. But the principle would be the same for dress clips as would sweater and scarf clips

Experiment with the thickness of chain necklaces and other materials such as mock pearl bead necklaces and chokers. Some clips will sit well but others will not.

This is a pair of Victorian Scottish dancers double brooches joined by a chain known as a chatelaine brooch. Sweater clips have alligator clips that are similar to the clips on men's tie bars or tie clips.


Here is an assortment of clips dress and scarf clips that I have to experiment with.



First I tried a square link necklace but the only clip that fitted fairly well was the dress clip, the others were too loose. I would suggest that sweater clips would sit well on this type of chain necklace

Next tried a chunky silver metal chain. This time the dress clip did not fit as the chain was too bulky, but the scarf clips were well suited as the chunkiness held the clip quite secure


Looking through necklaces and chokers that would be suitable, I came across this mock pearl bead work choker


Again the 1930s scarf clips were too bulky but the dress clip sat firm and looked quite unique. A similar bead work necklace would be ideal for sweater clips also.

Finally took some thick long chains and tried fitting the clips.


Both dress and scarf clips fitted very well. However sweater clips would slip along the chain unless they were small enough to fit side by side









Have fun with fitting clips to chains and experimenting. Would love to see how others get on